The Dog’s Way Video Training Course
A Different Approach to Dog Training Videos

When I started the preparation process for making the video course, I watched tons of dog training videos to see what was out there (yes, there are just about literally “tons” of dog training videos out there). I noticed that almost all of them had a few things that I didn’t like.
For Dogs Over 7 Months Old
12 lessons
- 15 reminder cards to take with you on your walks andhomework sessions as a reminder of key “Do’s” and “Do Not’s”
- Bonus and problem solving video lessons on the “students-only” website
- A workbook that follows along with each lesson.
- Access to all courses online
The Workbook Includes
- Specific homework assignments
- A quick quiz on each section to solidify your theory learning
- Detailed competency self-assessments to track your progress
The Dog’s Way Video Training Course $49.95

Use the course online for a year. Gain access immediately and save money!Gain access right away to The Dog’s Way Video Training Course and start training today! This option gives you 1 year of access to the whole video training course.
- Download the workbook
- Download the reminder cards
- Access the video training course right away online
Frequently asked questions about the course and the style of training
It’s important for me that the course is a fit for you. Here are some questions that folks have emailed me that represent the bulk of questions that I get (and my responses to them). If your question isn’t answered here, feel free to email me.
- Walking on a loose leash
- Sitting
- Staying
- Walking next to you in a controlled way on a shortened leash
- Leaving certain things alone on command (leave it)
- Leaving other things alone ‘permanently’ with no command required
- Coming when called
- Staying in a down for 10 minutes and longer
- Understanding temporary boundaries (stopping them from entering a room on command)
- Understanding permanent boundaries (for example: never bolting out the front door again)
- Staying quiet
- Settling down
- Meeting people
- Meeting dogs
There are other specific scenarios and lessons that are covered in mini-lessons on the “student learning library” on the log-in part of the website. For example, there are mini-lessons on things like:
- Getting your dog comfortable with bathing
- Learning to trim your dog’s nails without having to wrestle them to the ground
- Teaching your dog to accept brushing calmly
- 12 step-by-step lessons on 5 DVD’s
- 15 reminder cards to take with you on your walks and homework sessions as a reminder of key “Do’s and Don’ts”
- Bonus and problem-solving video lessons on the “students-only” website
- Your workbook to follow along with each lesson to make sure you’re getting all the info in each lesson.
The workbook includes
- Specific homework assignments
- A quick quiz on each section to solidify your theory learning
- Detailed competency self-assessments to track your progress
- The effectiveness of the conditioning is proportional to the motivation that the “reinforcer” (or food treat) provides. For example, I have many clients that simply say, “We were told our dog isn’t trainable because they’re just not interested in food treats or toys.” This is solved in dog training classes by telling clients to “get better treats” or “don’t feed Sparky on the day of class” This sort of advice comes straight from B.F. Skinner himself. To solve this “motivation issue”, Skinner kept the rats and pigeons (Skinner was never a canine researcher) that he did his studies with at ¾ of their normal body weight, literally starving them, to ensure when he brought a subject out for an experiment that they would be “consistently motivated” by the reinforcer. Since most of us feed our dog regularly and aren’t willing to keep them at starvation levels to improve training, this solution becomes problematic for most people.
- How motivating the “reinforcer” (food-treat) is, or how reliable the conditioned response is, when exposed to other environmental stimuli (distractions around your dog). Another set of clients that come to me have said things like, “Our dog could do the obedience command in our house or in the training room by himself. But if there were other people around, noises or any sort of distraction (like on a walk), none of the food-treat conditioning or food-luring worked!” This problem was dealt with by Sinner as well. In fact, he became famous (or infamous, depending on who you talk to) for his Skinner box. He conducted his experiments on rats and pigeons in highly controlled enclosures or boxes. In this way, he could control outside (distracting) factors and ensure an animal’s focus on the structured task in front of them. Skinner became intrigued with this idea of a highly controlled environment and even extended his ideas to child raising. Skinner raised his own daughter in a Skinner box ( which was a sort of rolling crib) that was completely enclosed with a glass window as the child’s only interaction with the outside world, with the exception of the several times a day where a child would be changed and fed. He marketed these “boxes” in the 1940s as “baby tenders” to “alleviate the inconveniences of mothering young children”. They didn’t sell very well because many mothers weren’t willing to keep their babies in a box 90% of the day.
There’s no doubt that some dogs can be trained to some level of “functionality” using a food treat based “positive-only” methodology. It’s probably important to define the word “functional” too. I’ve had many clients that competed in agility, competition obedience, rally, and other “sports”. They came to me because, while they were able to be “conditioned” to the tasks of their “sport”, they couldn’t perform very well when going to the beach, picnic, and park or be sane when someone tried to use a vacuum cleaner. So, I’m not saying don’t do “positive-only” training. In fact, my first exposure to training was in these methods. If that training works for you, then I’m happy for you. Again, I’m not on a mission to make everyone train dogs the way I do. I just don’t want people, who are continually frustrated living with their dogs, who have been told that their dog “doesn’t learn very well”, to believe that they have no other option. In my experience, using my method that takes a balanced approach to training and takes into account a dog’s natural communication style, works well for the vast majority of dogs.
What the course is
What the course isn’t
Some people have sent in a lot of questions asking what the course is all about. In response, I did a couple of little videos telling you what’s is in the course and (maybe more importantly) what’s not in the course. Hope these help.
Why Choose The Dog’s Way?
- The program helps you establish a clear relationship with your dog so your dog naturally looks to you for how to do things.
- The training doesn’t use food as a primary training tool, so you’re not stuck hoping the treat in your hand is more important than everything else your dog wants to do.
- It provides a more naturalistic approach that taps into your dog’s desire to follow a leader rather than relying on treat rewards.
- Because every dog is unique and starts at a different level of competence, The Dog’s Way teaches you how to figure out where to start training with your dog to make learning easy and natural.
- You can watch real untrained people and their dogs progress through the lessons with Sean so you can learn from their mistakes and challenges.
- You will learn to avoid common mistakes, such as inadvertently telling your dog that you want her to be the leader and encouraging the exact behaviors that you want your dog to stop.